Reference farms:
View the farms we have purchased goats from in the past!
SNR'S FARM: Our buck - SNR'S OL WILD BLUE SUNDANCEKID "Romeo" - came from this beautiful farm. Check out their website here -> https://snrsfarm.com/
THE BUNNY PATCH: A couple of our does came from this wonderful farm - STAYAWHILE CC MISS AMERICA "Sophie" and BUNNY PATCH SIMPLY RETRO. Check out their website
here -> https://www.thebunnypatch.net/
SWIFT KIDS FARM: The sweetest doe ever - SWIFT KIDS KB SWEET GYPSY BLU "Gypsy"- came from this amazing farm. Check out there website here -> Swift Kids Farm
WHITE WOOD FARM: We got our newest buck from this wonderful farm! Check out their website here -> White Wood Farm
THE BUNNY PATCH: A couple of our does came from this wonderful farm - STAYAWHILE CC MISS AMERICA "Sophie" and BUNNY PATCH SIMPLY RETRO. Check out their website
here -> https://www.thebunnypatch.net/
SWIFT KIDS FARM: The sweetest doe ever - SWIFT KIDS KB SWEET GYPSY BLU "Gypsy"- came from this amazing farm. Check out there website here -> Swift Kids Farm
WHITE WOOD FARM: We got our newest buck from this wonderful farm! Check out their website here -> White Wood Farm
Helpful Websites:
FIASCO FARM: this website has amazing information that is very helpful to read up on and also sells great herbal wormers! Check it out here-> https://fiascofarm.com/
ONION CREEK RANCH: this ranch specializes in meat goats but their website is truly a life saver and it has numerous articles loaded with information. Check it out here-> https://tennesseemeatgoats.com/
Here is their goat supply list: https://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/supplies.html
Here is their goat medication list: http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/goatmedications.html
ONLINE SHOPPING: these websites are good for ordering supplies online if a local store isn't available.
Jeffers Pet: https://www.jefferspet.com/
Valley Vet Supply: https://www.valleyvet.com/
Caprine Supply: https://www.caprinesupply.com/
Premier One Supply: https://www.premier1supplies.com/
ONION CREEK RANCH: this ranch specializes in meat goats but their website is truly a life saver and it has numerous articles loaded with information. Check it out here-> https://tennesseemeatgoats.com/
Here is their goat supply list: https://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/supplies.html
Here is their goat medication list: http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/goatmedications.html
ONLINE SHOPPING: these websites are good for ordering supplies online if a local store isn't available.
Jeffers Pet: https://www.jefferspet.com/
Valley Vet Supply: https://www.valleyvet.com/
Caprine Supply: https://www.caprinesupply.com/
Premier One Supply: https://www.premier1supplies.com/
supplies:
DISCLAIMER
We are not vets, nor experts on goat medicine and health care. The following information is for general reference only and is not intended as a way to diagnose or treat your animal. Nor is it intended to replace a professional veterinarian's opinion and care. We cannot guarantee the effectiveness of any of this information, or take responsibility for any loss or damage by following this information.
NEVER DELAY SEEKING VETERINARY CARE IF YOUR ANIMAL IS SICK.
List of Supplies:
The supplies marked with an * are most recommended to have.
General Care:
Dietary Care:
Grooming Care:
Health Care Equipment:
Health Care Supplies:
Medications:
Biomycin 200 (Oxytetracycline)- administered subcutaneously (SQ), this version doesn't sting as much as others and has a 10 day milk withdrawal time.
Spectrum Scour Halt- used to control diarrhea that has not been caused by coccidia in goat kids. Not for adult goats.
Liquamycin (LA-200)
*Safeguard
*Ivermectin
NOTES: some dewormers are no longer effective in many parts of the country due to parasite resistance and most dewormers will not treat all of the possible internal parasites of the host, so it is a good idea to have several on hand. PLEASE do NOT deworm on a schedule! This increases parasite resistance in your herd. Instead, monitor your herd for any signs of parasites- such as the 5 point check which you can find here (start at slide number 15): https://www.slideshare.net/schoenian/the-five-point-check. Then if they show signs of parasite infestation, get a fecal (process of looking for parasite eggs) run by a local vet or you can do it yourself under a microscope. Then if they have a high enough egg per gram count, deworm them. Almost all dewormers are best given to goats orally as a drench when treating internal parasites. Deworming is most effective when you choose two types from two different classes and repeated in 10-14 days after the initial dose to catch and larvae that hatch out after the first treatment. For milking does, be aware that there is a different milk withdrawal time associated with each dewormer. We use herbal dewormer as a preventative to reduce the number of parasites in our herd, if we see that chemical dewormers are needed we will consult a veterinarian and decide the best route to use them.
If you plan on breeding goats, you should make a birthing kit to be prepared for kidding season. You can find examples here: https://www.fiascofarm.com/goats/birthingkit.html
We are not vets, nor experts on goat medicine and health care. The following information is for general reference only and is not intended as a way to diagnose or treat your animal. Nor is it intended to replace a professional veterinarian's opinion and care. We cannot guarantee the effectiveness of any of this information, or take responsibility for any loss or damage by following this information.
NEVER DELAY SEEKING VETERINARY CARE IF YOUR ANIMAL IS SICK.
List of Supplies:
The supplies marked with an * are most recommended to have.
General Care:
- *Veterinary Contact Information-for emergencies, you just never know when you might need it!
- *Shelter- necessary to have something draft free for them to get out of the weather.
- *Fencing- I recommend something strong durable especially for bucks.
- Bedding- we use wasted hay, straw is good for winter time to keep warmth.
- Collars & Leashes- for leading, make sure if you do leave collars on that they are break away ones to be safe
- Play Toys- watch out for holes/gaps to avoid broken legs.
- Wheelbarrow
- Pitch Fork
- Rakes
- Shovel
Dietary Care:
- *Water Bucket- free access to water 24/7, we like to put ours in a corner so they can't knock it over as easily, make sure it is clean, if you have small goat kids-make sure they can't drown in it.
- *Hay & Hay Feeder- preferably to start with the same type of hay they were eating at their previous home. As for feeders, lots of great ideas out there make sure it is off the ground, but most waste a lot of hay, be careful with the design as goat are curious creatures but not the smartest. I've heard of goat owners finding out that their goat had gotten stuck in a hay feeder and died.
- *Loose Minerals & Mineral Feeder- necessary to get a good "goat or cattle specific" loose mineral, not a sheep mineral because goats need added copper and sheep can not have added copper. We use Sweetlix Meat Maker Minerals 16:8 and leave out free choice.
- *Goat Grain- Of course grain is not necessary because goats can thrive off of forage alone. But grain is good to improve body condition or support with nutrients. Preferably start with what they had at their previous home. Pregnant and lactating does should be supported with grain, bucks should be supported with proper balanced grain (2:1 calcium to phosphorus ratio) during rut.
- *Grain Storage Bin- we use a metal garbage can lined with a garbage bag but chest freezers/bins are good too.
- *Food Scoops- to scoop grain.
- *Food Dishes- to monitor individual feeding.
- Weight Scale (bathroom scale or weight tape)
- Black Oil Sunflower Seeds (BOSS)- great source of fat to add to a goats ration to up their body condition, be careful when feeding to bucks or wethers as it has a high phosphorus ratio, to balance it out feed some alfalfa with it.
- Baking Soda- some say to use for bloat/ph regulation. We choose not to offer free choice but others do. Do what works for you.
- Treats- make sure they are safe for goats :) Some examples are fruit, vegetables, peanuts, animal crackers... just feed in moderation.
Grooming Care:
- *Hoof Trimmer- depending on their terrain, goats usually need a hoof trim once a month.
- Blood Stop Powder (or even flour/cornstarch) to stop bleeding- used to stop the bleeding if a hoof is trimmed too aggressively.
- Grooming Brushes- once introduced to it, most goats usually enjoy brush downs to help with shedding or even live prevention.
- Clippers- show goats usually need to be shaved to see conformation during shows, but as the weather warms up, clipping your goat is an effective way for them to stay cool and prevent/eliminate lice.
- Shampoo- to use during a bath to clean them up or during a show too.
- *Milking Stand/Stanchion- one of the most well used pieces on our farm! It serves many purposes from restriction to give medication, trim hooves, milk, brush, groom, and to closely observe them. Plans from FiascoFarms to build your own can be found here: https://fiascofarm.com/files/Milk_Stand_Plans.pdf
Health Care Equipment:
- *Rectal Thermometer- must have on hand because one of the easiest ways to tell if your goat is sick is by taking its temperature.
- *Syringes (luer lock and slip tip, many sizes)- luer lock syringes 3mL and 6mL will cover most needed injections, slip tip syringes are more appropriate to drench your goat with oral liquid or medications.
- *Needles (we use 20 or 22 gauge by 1 inch.)- these sizes are recommended to use for goats, the larger the gauge, the finer the needle.
- *Drench Gun or Drencher- A 20 or 30 mL drencher is indispensable for administering drugs or dewormers orally to goats.
- Microscope- we use a laboratory grade microscope to conduct fecals to count our goats parasite egg counts. Of course you can have your veterinarian do it but we realized we could save money doing it ourselves (when your vet charges $40+ for one fecal sample, times 10 goats, and a good microscope with supplies is only $250, we figured it was more realistic to do it ourselves.) Plus there are awesome informative videos online that can teach you how to conduct a fecal at home! Here is a link to a great kit: http://www.maggidans.com/kte.htm
Health Care Supplies:
- *Activated Charcoal- should have this on hand, used to absorb toxins when a goat has consumed something poisonous.
- Ammonium Chloride- to aid/prevent urinary calculi wethers or bucks.
- Baby Aspirin- given to goats to relieve pain (common sign of pain is grinding teeth), lower a high fever, or reduce inflammation. To administer, simply dissolve it in warm water and give it as an oral drench. Make sure to use real aspirin, Ibuprofen and Tylenol should NOT be used for goats.
- *Electrolyte Mix- Powdered product that is used to re-hydrate sick goats, usually mixed with water and drench orally or into drinking water. (in a pinch you can use Gatorade/sugar water for energy).
- Milk of Magnesia- this is a laxative used to relieve constipation, a toxic reaction, or other indigestion from overeating or improper feeding. It's important to make sure the goat stays well hydrated when taking a laxative. Can us with electrolyte mix.
- *Goat Nurtri-Drench- supplement that is used to supply quick energy to stressed goats. It contains the vitamins, minerals, and nutrients to help a sick goat recover from illness. We also give to newborn kids after birth for an extra boost. Follow instructions on the label for dosages.
- *Probios/Probiotics- these products reintroduce beneficial organisms to the rumen, aid digestion, and help maintain proper rumen function. It is highly recommended that the product is used after any antibiotic treatment (the antibiotics kill the beneficial micro-organisms in the rumen), after treatment for diarrhea, and in any situation which causes the goat(s) stress.
- *Selenium & Vitamin E Gel- if in a selenium deficient area, this is good to have on hand to supplement any deficiencies. Bose is a similar product but is an injection where this is given orally. We also give this one month prior to kidding to prevent white muscle disease.
- Vegetable Oil/Corn Oil/ Bloat Treatment- used to "get things moving" if a goat has gotten into the grain and bloated.
- *Vitamin B Complex- another necessity you should have on hand, used to stimulate the appetite of goats that are not eating, aids in treatment of polio/listeria and other emergencies, administered subcutaneously (SQ) which means via injection just under the skin.
- Iodine (or beta-dint)- a basic disinfecting solution that is used to clean surfaces or wounds. It is also used to dip umbilical cords of newborn kids.
- Vet Wrap- vet wrap and gauze are two items to always keep on hand if you need to wrap a wound or injury.
Medications:
- Antibiotics: some are prescription only.
Biomycin 200 (Oxytetracycline)- administered subcutaneously (SQ), this version doesn't sting as much as others and has a 10 day milk withdrawal time.
Spectrum Scour Halt- used to control diarrhea that has not been caused by coccidia in goat kids. Not for adult goats.
Liquamycin (LA-200)
- Toltrazuril- used to treat coccidia.
- *BoSe/ Selenium & Vitamin E Gel- BoSe is prescription drug given to goats living in selenium deficient areas to prevent problems caused by selenium deficiency. The Selenium & Vitamin E Gel is not prescription.
- *CD&T Toxoid (Clostridium Prefinges Type C & D and Tetanus)(vac)- this provides yearlong protection from overeating disease (types C&D) and tetanus. Recommended that all goats be given a shot annually. The toxoid should be kept refrigerated. Not uncommon for an abscess to develop at a CD & T injection site, so the armpit region (are behind the front legs) is often the preferred site for CD&T vaccinations.
- C&D Antitoxin- this is given to try to save a goat that developed enterotoxemia (overeating disease). It is administered SQ and should be refrigerated. It's best to try to prevent the disease by giving a CDT shot annually as stated above, but it is critical to have this on hand if a goat develops the disease because you probably won't have time to purchase it and still save the goat. Five days after using the CD&T Antitoxin, the goat should receive the CD&T Toxoid (above) and then in 30 days to provide long-term protection.
- Tetanus Antitoxin- this is used for immediate treatment of tetanus. Tetanus is fatal if not promptly treated so it is best to have on hand. It's available in a single 5 ml vial that should be kept refrigerated. Five days after this is used, the goat should be re-vaccinated with tetanus toxoid or the CD&T toxoid (the two injection series given 30 days apart) to prevent disease for the next year.
- *Dewormers-
*Safeguard
*Ivermectin
NOTES: some dewormers are no longer effective in many parts of the country due to parasite resistance and most dewormers will not treat all of the possible internal parasites of the host, so it is a good idea to have several on hand. PLEASE do NOT deworm on a schedule! This increases parasite resistance in your herd. Instead, monitor your herd for any signs of parasites- such as the 5 point check which you can find here (start at slide number 15): https://www.slideshare.net/schoenian/the-five-point-check. Then if they show signs of parasite infestation, get a fecal (process of looking for parasite eggs) run by a local vet or you can do it yourself under a microscope. Then if they have a high enough egg per gram count, deworm them. Almost all dewormers are best given to goats orally as a drench when treating internal parasites. Deworming is most effective when you choose two types from two different classes and repeated in 10-14 days after the initial dose to catch and larvae that hatch out after the first treatment. For milking does, be aware that there is a different milk withdrawal time associated with each dewormer. We use herbal dewormer as a preventative to reduce the number of parasites in our herd, if we see that chemical dewormers are needed we will consult a veterinarian and decide the best route to use them.
- *Copper Bolus- copper deficiency is a documented problem for goats in many areas of the United States and other countries. Copper boluses were developed to treat copper deficiency and are available in 2 and 4 gram bolus sizes suitable for large and small goats. We bolus our herd annually.
- Epinephrine- this is a prescription drug that every goat owner that gives injections should have on hand. When given an injection, a goat can go into anaphylactic shock (immediate collapse), and the only way to save it is to administer this. Always have it on hand and be ready to use it when giving injections. You won't have time to go get it if a goat goes into shock. The dosage is 1 mL SQ or IM per 100 pounds. It should be refrigerated.
- First Aid/Birthing Kit:
If you plan on breeding goats, you should make a birthing kit to be prepared for kidding season. You can find examples here: https://www.fiascofarm.com/goats/birthingkit.html